SPECIAL POST: What Do You Call It? A Modern Historical View of Handbag Terminology

Purse, pocketbook, or handbag? Bucket, box, or top handle? What do YOU call it?

What Do You Call It? A Modern Historical View of Handbag Terminology

What do you call that in which you carry your credit cards, makeup, and cell phone? Is it a handbag, bag, purse, or pocketbook? The Vintage Purse Museum is here to assure you that there is no right or wrong. 

First, we wish to clarify the use of “modern historical view” in the caption of this article. While it sounds like an oxymoron, we’re focusing on more recent vocabulary—the last 100 years—rather than the origins of the word “purse” and its synonyms. (One online definition says “purse” comes from the ancient Greek “bursa,” meaning hide or leather, but we're not going that far back.)

The Vintage Purse Museum has been gently—and sometimes not so gently—corrected due to “purse” being contained in our name, as well as our use of it in our social media. We tend toward "handbag" in our posts, but we do use it interchangeably with "purse." However, we've been told that “handbag” is the proper word for it.

Well, yes… and no.

We’ve learned from extensive research of various handbag makers, and our study of bag facts and histories, that the words “handbag” and “bag” are the preferred formal descriptions of this product. That is, those in the handbag industry most often used (and still use) the marketing term “handbag,” which is reflected in their advertising. The second most used word is “bag.”

1952 newspaper ad that clearly states the preferred marketing term... over and over. 😁 Ad clipped via subscription to Newspapers.com.

The word “purse” is used much less often in advertising as a descriptor of a handbag. In midcentury newspaper ads, “purse” is generally used to describe children’s purses or coin purses. It also has other meanings. If you type “purse” in the keyword search box of an online newspaper archive, with date parameters of 1900-1980, it will frequently appear as a term for a horse racing prize.

As to its use in The Vintage Purse Museum’s name, we are curators of an extensive real-life collection of handbags and purse-related accessories and ephemera, privately stored in Arizona, United States (and viewable globally online). Here in the US, “purse” is arguably the most commonly used synonym for “handbag.” "Purse" is also the best keyword to use while searching for them online to purchase. Those who’ve corrected us most often are people from Europe (in particular, the UK), where the word “handbag” is primarily used. One person told us that the word “purse” was, in their country, slang for genitalia. (Hey, we’re only relating what we were told!)

1915 Cambridge, England newspaper article that uses the words "handbags" and "purses." Clipped via subscription to Newspapers.com.

When we’ve interviewed vintage bag makers and their relatives, “handbag” is the upscale term they use to describe their product. But despite industry marketing, geographical location, or distaste for its usage, the word “purse” is a proper and correct synonym for “handbag.”

1976 photo of a Texas (US) woman who was reunited with the purse she lost ten years earlier. Clipped via subscription to Newspapers.com.

The colloquial American term “pocketbook” is perhaps even more controversial than “purse.” For instance, your midwestern great aunt may have referred to her everyday handbag as a “pocketbook,” but its meaning can also be wallet or billfold or a smaller purse that’s more portable than a traditional full-sized handbag. Is your auntie or other relative or friend misspeaking when they call any of these things a “pocketbook?” No. Even the history of this word proves that there is no right or wrong. For example, in the 1920s-1950s there was a US-based “Pocketbook Workers Union” for handbag factory employees. Also, a number of handbag manufacturers’ locations were called “pocketbook factories” in newspaper articles of the day.

1955 newspaper headline that uses the words "pocketbook factory" to describe a handbag manufacturing facility. Clipped via subscription to Newspapers.com.

Now that we’ve explained the primary descriptors of the receptacle that pretty much holds the key to (and other accoutrements of) your daily life, here is a partial list of common handbag styles with simple definitions and related facts. Not every style name is listed. Also, please keep in mind that these are subject to interpretation by handbag makers, online sellers, and consumers. There are also crossover of terms, some of which we've noted below.

Handbag Styles and Definitions (A Partial Alphabetical List)

Back Strap – This is a handbag, usually a small one, that has a strap across the back rather than at the top. It is often referred to today as a “dance” strap because one could slide one’s hand beneath it to wear while dancing with a gentleman. Meaning a lady could hold the bag while simultaneously positioning her hand across her dance partner’s back. However, we have found no vintage advertisements that call this a “dance strap.” It is also sometimes mistakenly called a “belt purse,” because people assume the strap is fastened to the back so that the bag can be worn on one’s belt. While this is an entirely possible use of it, and there were belt bags produced in the midcentury, the great majority of back strap bags are not meant to be used as belt bags. 

1930s Graceline moire bag with back strap, front view. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum

1930s Graceline moire bag with back strap, back view. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Barrel – A handbag that is made in a cylindrical shape with straps generally attached to the widest (horizontal) part, although sometimes the strap is attached to the (vertical) top portion.

1950s barrel-shaped tapestry and metal bag by Tyrolean. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Barrel bag by Tyrolean with straps at the top. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Billfold – A thin folding case, usually made of leather, vinyl or a similar material, for paper money, identification and credit cards. It can have compartments, and it is often used interchangeably with the word “wallet.”

Box Bag – This refers to the shape of a bag, and there are many that can be considered box-style, with a variety of dimensions and handle types. The box is generally rectangular (or “cuboid”), or it can be “treasure chest” style, with a rounded top. The concept of a box bag is very much in the eye of the beholder.

1960s-1970s wooden box bag by Madge. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Interior of the box bag above.

Bracelet Handle – The handle of this bag looks like somewhat like a bracelet, round for the most part, then slightly elongated where it’s affixed to the top of the handbag. Sometimes a bracelet handle has faux stones or gems. Other bracelet handles are completely round, and attached to the bag with fabric.

1960s bracelet handle "Old Masters" silk front handbag by Faye Mell. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Closeup of the bracelet handle of the bag above.

Bucket – This is another term that is subject to interpretation, but usually refers to the shape of the main part of the handbag. It can be any size, with closures ranging from drawstring to zipper. "Bucket" can be used interchangeably with the “feed bag” style, or even a "tote" in some circumstances.

Enid Collins of Texas 1970s bucket-shaped denim bag with poodle motif. We've also seen this style referred to as a "feed bag." From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Carryall - Sometimes known as a "fitted kit" due to its accessories such as a mirror, comb, lipstick case and/or other small items, this is usually a small-size evening bag, and can be made of fabric and/or metal. Not all carryalls have handles. This term was also used to describe completely unrelated styles of handbags in some midcentury advertising, which only adds to the confusion.

1950s Lin-Bren brocade carryall with comb and powder compact. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Clutch – A clutch bag is usually small- to medium-sized (although there was a 1940s trend of enormous clutch bags) and meant to be held at the top by one’s hand or under one’s arm. Sometimes this was called the “under arm” style. Some clutches have a hidden “convertible” fabric or chain strap that folds or tucks inside. We've seen online sellers mistakenly refer to a bag with a top handle as a “clutch,” presumably because one would "clutch" that portion of the purse in one's hand. While technically correct from an anatomical standpoint, a bag with a fixed handle is not a clutch bag.

Original 1940s photo of woman carrying large-size "under arm" clutch bag. From the collection of The Vintage Purse museum.

Coin Purse – A coin purse can be virtually any shape, with a clasp or zipper, but is usually small, and meant to carry coins and, sometimes, folded paper money.

Circa 1956 cabretta leather pale blue coin purse with unusual side clasp by Koret. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum

Crossbody – This is a purse with a long strap that a person can wear over the shoulder and diagonally across their chest, making it hands-free. The purse portion can be virtually any shape.

Doctor’s Bag – This handbag is shaped similarly to the traditional home-visiting doctor’s bag of ye olden days. It is usually a much more fashionable version, not as large, and made of softer leather rather than the durable pebbled leather of kindly old Dr. Smith's bag of surgical supplies.

Drawstring – The drawstring bag has a closure made of string, yarn or fabric, placed either externally or internally, that pulls it shut from the outside. The bag itself is usually rounded, cylindrical, or pouch-shaped. Some bucket and feed bag styles have a drawstring.

1950s Jo Hagewood loomed drawstring bag. From the collection of The vintage Purse Museum.

Envelope – Most commonly found as a clutch-style, although some have straps, the envelope is traditionally rectangular, with a triangular flap as its closure. Sometimes the flap can be straight across, a rectangle on a rectangle.

1960-1970s Magid sequined envelope-style clutch. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Feed Bag – This type of purse looks very much like a horse’s rounded, oblong feed bag, but usually has a closure such as a zipper or snap. "Feed bag" style is often used interchangeably with “bucket bag.”

Hobo – A hobo is a shoulder bag with a strap that usually goes from the shoulder down to approximately the wearer’s torso, with a bag that is somewhat loose and roomy.

Messenger – This is a relatively modern creation, with a bag that is large and squared off in shape, and a strap handle that is often adjustable. It can resemble a child’s vintage book bag.

Pannier – A term that is no longer used to describe handbags, the pannier is a single strap usually connected at the top center of the handbag, and meant to be worn over the wrist.

Brown satin evening bag, no maker label, with pannier handle. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Saddle Bag – Another equine term, the saddle bag mimics traditional cowboy paraphernalia, and is flat on top, rounded at the bottom, generally has a shoulder strap. There are also literal "saddle" bags, a miniature interpretation of a horse's saddle.

Tooled leather and fabric saddle bag-style purse with shoulder strap, 1960s-1970s. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum. 

Satchel – This is a rather tricky term, with multiple meanings depending on maker. It could look like a smaller version of luggage, a messenger-style bag, or even a zippered tote, often possessing a short handle as well as a shoulder strap.

Shoulder Bag – A handbag with a strap that allows for comfortably carrying it over one’s shoulder. Some shoulder bags are crossbodies.

1970s-1980s red suede shoulder bag by Safi. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Swagger – An older term, which we rarely see nowadays, a swagger bag was usually leather, small to medium in size, and with a top handle or handles. We found ads for swagger bags from the early 1900s to the 1980s.

1921 newspaper ad for "swagger bags." Clipped via subscription to Newspapers.com

Top handle – Pretty much what it sounds like, a top handle handbag can be made of any type of fabric, with a handle situated widthwise at the top portion of the bag.

1963 newspaper ad for a variety of top handle handbags. Clipped via subscription to Newspapers.com.

Tote – It can be many things, but a tote is generally rectangular, made of almost any type of material, either open at the top, or with a zipper or other type of closure. Handles or straps are usually shorter than a typical shoulder bag, but long enough to be comfortable carrying over the shoulder.

1970s Pegie by the Sea marine vinyl golf tote. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Train Case/Trunk – This boxy handbag mimics yesteryear’s smaller luggage train case that one would use to carry one’s cosmetics or small personal items while traveling. “Train case” appears to be the preferred term now, while 1960s-1970s advertisements generally call them “trunks.” However, some people categorize them as “box bags,” which illustrates the point that there is overlap in style definitions, as well as an evolution of lingo.

1970s trunk or train case-style bag by Fleurette. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

Wallet – Another sort of catch-all term, this can be a billfold or coin purse or a combination billfold-coin purse-credit card carrier, etc. 

Wristlet – This term was not used often in old advertising, although we found Australian newspaper ads for wristlet handbags in the early 1900s, as well as a 1944 US newspaper ad for one. It seems “wristlet” is now the contemporary term, describing a bag—usually of smaller size—that has a strap meant to be worn over the wrist. It could be that the word “wristlet” replaced the “pannier.”

Unlabeled 1960s box bag with molded plastic beads and wristlet handle. From the collection of The Vintage Purse Museum.

We know that not everyone will concur with some of the content of this post, but we hope that we can all agree that vintage handbags/bags/purses/pocketbooks—whatever you choose to call them—are a joy to own.

This article c2024 by Wendy Dager/The Vintage Purse Museum. Please do not use photos or information from this article or any others from our website without requesting permission, vintagepursemuseum@gmail.com.